The Mystery of Spain’s Chinese Bars

A large number of Spain’s most traditional local tapas bars are now run by members of the Chinese community. Why?

Spain has more bars per head of population than any other EU country — in 2017, there was one bar for every 137 people. Spain’s bars aren’t just places to get drunk in (though you can do so easily and cheaply). In the mornings they serve breakfast — toast with tomato or oil, or a croissant — to folks about to start work, which they can then wash down with coffee. Later they’ll serve…